The East Coast of Australia - Sydney to Cairns

After having such a fantastic few months in the Sydney area, it was time to point the bow north and begin our exploration of Australia’s east coast. What followed was 1,400 miles of beauty, surprises, friendships, and the kind of memories that only life at sea can give you.

Before the real adventure could begin, Joline needed her annual haul and maintenance.

We booked into Boat Works on the Gold Coast, and honestly, it was the most pleasant yard experience we’ve ever had. The facility was immaculate, the staff was brilliant, and everything just… worked. We even launched a day early, feeling refreshed and ready. Trim loved Boatworks – every morning he would return to the boat with very dirty paws and a dusty coat!

The Inside Track to Brisbane — and a Pylon Problem

The route up to Brisbane winds through rivers and estuaries, but smack in the middle sits a pylon with an air draught of 20.6 metres. We draw 26 metres. Not ideal.

But the internet is a treasure trove of conflicting advice, and some suggested we might squeeze through. It was a bit nerve-racking, but with a Mattress to pick up in Scarborough, we went for it. Getting that enormous mattress into our tiny dinghy at Scarborough Marina was a comedy sketch in itself.

With the mattress onboard, we were whisked north by the trade winds and favourable currents, toward the Whitsunday Islands, but not before a lovely stop in Mooloolaba. Like almost every Australian town we visited, it was spotless, friendly, and full of beautiful public spaces. Perfect for bike rides.

From Mooloolaba, we continued to Pancake Creek, where a stunning walk rewarded us with sweeping countryside views and absolute solitude. The vastness of Australia really is impressive as you go up the coast alone, and see it just as Capt Cook would have – nothing for endless miles, just coastline, reefs and islands. Fortunately, the anchorages are now well charted, usually delightful, and we feel privileged to be here.

Middle Percy is home to a quirky A-frame filled with memorabilia left by passing sailors — signs, flags, carvings. Naturally, we wanted to leave our mark too. Back on the boat, we carved out our own contribution and added it to the collection.

Then it was onward to Brampton Islands, where beautiful early morning walks and an army of spiders gave us our first close encounter with Australia’s wildlife. Little did we know, there was much more to come.

Whitsunday Magic: Friends, Parties, and Reef Adventures

Arriving in Airlie Beach and the Whitsundays felt like stepping into a dream. We reunited with our good friend Jim, met Marie, — a capable solo sailor who was delightful company, — and of course, we hosted a good party aboard Joline to wish our dear friends on Hawkeye, Alexander and Richard safe sailing as they now head north to Indonesia. A memorable night, full of warmth and good fun. We also welcomed a new friend on board Joline; Libby, who loved Joline life, and was a delight to have on board.

Out on Hardy’s Reef, I finally learned that water can appear to go uphill — or at least it looks that way when you’re taking a dinghy into the reef with John. A fun adventure again finding ourselves alone in the splendor of the Great Barrier Reef.

Riding the trade winds made the journey to Magnetic Island feel effortless. Early morning walks were breathtaking — quiet, gentle, and full of that tropical magic.

Next stop: Fitzroy Island, just south of Cairns. The weather was rubbish — truly not what we hoped for,— so after three days of rocking around we spent we called the marina in Cairns, and they offered us a pile mooring for a week. Perfect timing, as we needed medicals for our Australian visa extensions.

Cairns itself wasn’t showing its best side weather‑wise, so it was time for some land activities: crocodiles, trains and shopping.

Friends were meant to join us in Cairns, but due to the appalling weather, plans shifted. We decided to sail back to the Whitsundays and host them there rather than waiting for perfect reef weather   up crocodile and shark infested waters.

The trip south was marked by John's snake encounter on Dunk Island. A bit scary as during our 6.5km stroll he stepped on a Scrub Python, and I have never seen him move so quickly! The horrible thing was so aggressive-looking. Fortunately, no bite.

Will we head north again? Absolutely, we have unfinished business in the north; those ribbon reefs are on our hit list.  

For now, we’re happily cruising back toward the Whitsundays, ready for more time with friends and whatever life at sea has in store next.

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